7 iconic restaurants in Mumbai that capture the nostalgic spirit of Bombay

The more one dwells on it, the clearer it becomes that describing Mumbai is a Sisyphean task. It’s inexplicable because it is so many things, after all. Sometimes though, spaces, unlike words, manage to make a more cogent sense of the city. And often, the best way to step into the city is to simply walk through the doors of one of the 14,894 (or so) restaurants.

Pressed between homes in twisting lanes or perched on the corner street of a Tory neighbourhood, these restaurants are reflective of the city’s many moods. Some cue you to Mumbai’s multi-cultural history, others soak you into ‘Bombay’s’ inimitable pneuma, and a few stay on as totems of its colonial past. From charming 19th-century cafés and kitschy-cool local haunts of the ’90s to upscale contemporary classics—here are 7 iconic restaurants in Mumbai (and some more) that offer you a slice of ‘Bombay’, but in starkly different flavours.

Leopold Cafe, Colaba

Nuriyah Johar

At 153, Leopold Cafe continues to buzz with tourists and locals alike. With touches of Victorian architecture, the restaurant’s interiors features arresting fluted columns; antiquated cream-coloured fans; dark-brown and careworn furniture; wood panelling on the upper walls; and bullet holes to remind you that it’s as much a testament to the city’s colonial past, as it is to its resilience in the aftermath of the 26/11 terror attacks. And while its half-European, somewhat-Indian menu may not always deliver on taste, the space captures Mumbai’s flavour perfectly.

Pizza By The Bay, Churchgate

Nuriyah Johar

Nuriyah Johar

Nuriyah Johar

First launched in the 1960s as Talk Of The Town, then rechristened as Jazz By The Bay in the ’80s, and now, in its most-recent avatar as Pizza By The Bay—this sea-facing establishment, one of the most iconic restaurants in Mumbai, has changed along with the city: embracing its obsession with live music and dance parties; growing to become a jazz hotspot and finally, coming to rest as a pizzeria in 2010. Subsequently, it has gone through multiple renovations but flashes of Mumbai’s love affair with the art-deco movement can be found in its facade and monochromatic interiors. Go for the kheema pizza and stay for the sweeping views of Kilachand Chowk, made better by its floor-to-ceiling glass walls.

Gallops, Mahalaxmi

Gallops

Gallops

Gallops

Located inside Mahalaxmi Racecourse, Gallops Restaurant offers sweeping views, with a side of ’80s nostalgia. Interestingly, in 1986, the diner was born out of a collaboration between two Talk Of The Town regulars: Rahul Malik, who was the manager, and Jasmine Singh, a patron. The now 37-year-old iconic location (and wedding-venue favourite, might we add) makes quite the case for itself with a white-picketed entryway, green wall frontage, warm, wooden furnishing, draped windows, indoor-outdoor dining, and tree canopies bejewelled with a thousand fairy lights—all served alongside a multi-cuisine menu.

Kala Ghoda Cafe, Kala Ghoda

Nuriyah Johar

Karl Kolah

Easy to miss, hard to ignore—Kala Ghoda Cafe is the eponymous art district’s most delicious institution. With three segments: a quaint, modern-esque café, a timeless dining area and a cosy-but-classy wine bar, KGC (as it’s lovingly called) is best described as retro-chic. Inside, split-painted walls in aqua and white, teak furniture and the slow-whirring of fans set the stage for a casual-but-inspired menu, featuring everything from mushroom risotto to Parsi classics, like salli boti.

Cafe De La Paix, Girgaum

Nuriyah Johar